Stage 10 - Bodiam to Rye (16.3 miles)

This last section of the East Sussex SBP had been outstanding for over a year!  We haven’t neglected the trail completely as we have walked the mid-Sussex link section in the interim, but it is still about 6 months since we last walked the Sussex Border Path together.  It was certainly time to rectify this!  It has however, taken me a further 2 months to write this up, so the memory is a little vague....



The route from Bodiam to Rye



There seems to be no official end to the walk in Rye, but the route as shown on the OS map appears to terminate near the station, so this is where Anne & I met.   We then drove back to Bodiam for the start. 

Anne & the dogs by the River Rother, Bodiam

Bodiam Castle

We set off east along the banks of the River Rother, with views to Bodiam Castle to the north.  Soon we turned away from the river – we would join it again for the last 6 miles of our walk - and turned south to cross the Kent and East Sussex railway line. After continuing south briefly in the valley, we forked left over a stile and climbed the biggest hill of the day, to a lane before turning left to Ewhurst Green village.

View north to castle after climbing the only real hill of the day

Nice cottage in Ewhurst Green

After passing the White Dog Inn we turned right off the road on a path alongside an apple orchard, skirting this field before emerging briefly on another lane.  We nearly missed the path just before the bridge as it was pretty overgrown, but only overshot by a few yards. 

Black dog at the White Dog Inn

Apple harvest

The path continued roughly in the valley, but unfortunately I was not paying proper attention to the map reading and we took a wrong turn where the path forked, taking us about 1/2km out of our way.  Admittedly, the path we took was much more obvious on the ground, but it was still rather annoying as we had a long way to walk today.  Once back on track, we continued in the valley across a number of fields, close to and across a stream, for about 1 km to a lane.

A serious piece of farm machinery takes a rest - its work is done

Heading for a bridge and narrow squeeze stile - difficult in a rucksack

Our route went  straight across, initially up the drive to Strawberry Hole, then bearing left past the cottage and up through a field.  Taking the correct right fork this time, we headed east to meet the A28 at Northiam, near the church.

Path alongside boundary wall of Westwell House, approaching Northiam

Village sign

We turned right along the road and after about 150m, after the green, forked left along a slip road, and then left along a gravel drive which soon curved right round some cottages to a field gate.  We were about to head downhill along the right field boundary, when I realised we were wrong again, and a closer look at the map revealed our correct route more east than southeast. 

It would be hard to miss such a large waymarker as we leave Northiam

Roly poly field

Over the next ½ mile or so we crossed a number of harvested arable fields (some already ploughed and harrowed), crossed two streams, and passed through a couple of strips of woodland to reach a lane by Woodgate House.  Here we had a nice chat with the house owner, who was doing a bit of garden clearance, accompanied by her golden retriever.  She was very impressed with the distance we were intending to walk today.

Looking for a stile in the field boundary - the path had not been reinstated

Woodpile near Woodgate House

Once on the road, we turned left and then, at the first junction, forked right along Rectory Lane. In about 100m or so, immediately beyond the garden of a large white house, we turned left through a gate and then quickly right through a second gate.  There were plenty of ‘Private’ signs here to keep us on the correct route.

This road sign has seen better days!

"turn left immediately after large white house"

We walked through a number of coarse pasture fields, and reached the B2088 at Beckley.  Turning left, we walked up the pavement for about 150m, and then turned left over a stile to follow a rather overgrown footpath through an old abandoned orchard, rapidly reverting to ‘picturesque neglect’ (to quote the online SBP guide). The path was certainly not very clear on the ground, and didn’t look much used, despite finding a spanking new footbridge spanning the stream.  From here we followed our noses (literally) to pass close to a water treatment works.

Leaving Beckley - the waymarker is nearly hidden by vegetation

A very overgrown path!

After the sewage works, we crossed a couple of grass fields (where a few geese were grazing) to reach the A268.  Turning right, we walked along the pavement for about 50m, before turning left off the road roughly opposite a large cottage.  It was then gently uphill across several grassy fields (sometimes with no path visible on the ground), and through a narrow strip of woodland, where Zuka found a wonderful prize – an unopened packet of Mini Cheddars.  She was VERY proud of herself!

Checking the route shortly after leaving the A268

Zuka and her Mini Cheddars

We now continued east on a level path adjacent to Dean Wood.  The path was bordered on the other side by a large hedge.  Zuka continued to carry her lunch and did her best to keep a jealous Poppy at bay!  We emerged onto Hobbs Lane and turned right. Just before our exit stile on the left, we passed a man lying underneath his car in his drive, presumably tinkering with something.  Zuka went up to investigate and quite startled the man, I think.  I’m sure she was only going to check his pockets for snacks (although, if I remember correctly, she was still carrying her Cheddars at this point).

Zuka startled this man working on his car on Hobb's Lane

The route then headed across a couple of fields and through a strip of wood, before passing between two ponds to reach a junction with the High Weald Landscape Trail.  Although both paths end in Rye, they follow quite different routes to arrive there, and had we been on the HWLT, heading for Rye, we would actually have been walking on this bit of the path in the opposite direction!

Lily pond south of Evening Wood

Unusual tree stump

A couple more field paths followed, including one through a maize crop.  Reaching a footbridge, we crossed a stream and turned right over a humped brick bridge, before turning left again after about 50m, to head straight across another field towards a farm building.  We had to pass through a field with nice brown cows and a bull in it, but they took no notice of us.

Footbridge and humped brick bridge

Still heading NE, the next field was recently ploughed, although it had already been harrowed, so it wasn’t too difficult to walk on.  The online guide mentions the way being guided by wooden marker posts, but I can’t remember seeing them to be honest.  I do remember we had lunch here, as it was about 2pm, and it was a bit uncomfortable sitting on the lumpy ground.

Lunch stop - Little blue tractor ploughing every field in sight!

When we continued, it was a short distance across the rest of the plough, and through a small copse, to reach a lane where we turned left.  The waymarker at the field boundary has been carved with the words “FOLLOW ROAD”.  When I looked at my photo initially I had assumed that it was the name of the lane, but more probably it is just a walk instruction.  Odd, though, because it was pretty obvious you had to cross the stile onto the road?

Still route sharing with the HWLT

Crossing the River Rother on the road bridge

About 300m along the lane we reached Blackwall Bridge, and crossed the River Rother, whose source is near Rotherfield in East Sussex, just a couple of miles from my home.  The River is navigable from Bodiam to Rye, the start and finish points today's walk.  An annual charity raft race is run, and we had missed this by just one week, as it took place on the last Sunday in August.  It would have made our experience of walking along this section quite different.  Without the rafts and spectators, our six mile hike along the Rother to Rye had a very peaceful feel.  There were virtually no boats on the river and of the few we saw, only one was actually moving. 

This fisherman looks like he's nodded off!

Peaceful river scene

The map shows a diversion from the riverbank after about 2km, but on the ground this did not happen and the path continued beside the water for the full 4km or so to the road bridge carrying the B2082, Wittersham Road.

Reaching the road bridge carrying the B2082

Having crossed the road, we walked for a short while up a track just out of sight of the water, which was over a flood bank.  Here we passed an attractive house and then, more unusually, a collection of old 2CV cars.  A little further on was a derelict barn that had definitely seen better days, although amazingly, the roof was still on.

Collection of 2CVs

Derelict barn

All along this section there were some fine views north to a ridge of hills.  Looking NE you could see the end of the ridge where the Saxon Shore way heads south to join our route into Rye a little further on.

View NE - the Saxon Shore Way comes off this ridge before also heading for Rye

At the next bridge, we detoured round a house and crossed the Military Road and also the Royal Military Canal.  The Canal (which I appear not to have photographed) was built during the Napoleonic Wars to serve as both a means of transport and a barrier in the event of a French invasion.  It is now important as a means of controlling the water level in the marshes.

Most of the boats we saw today were moored, like these

Route sharing with Saxon Shore Way & Royal Military Canal Path

The route of the river had now swung south or even south west, so we were heading into the late afternoon sun.  After passing a number of caravans on the river bank and Boonshill Bridge, we soon reached another lock, after which the river becomes tidal.  South of the lock the water almost disappeared and we were left looking at mudflats, presumably because the tide was out.

Poppy & Zukia pose by Iden Lock

Beyond Iden Lock the river is tidal

After crossing another side channel, this time the Union Channel (which I DID get a photo of), we continued along the bank for another 1km or so, to reach the railway bridge.  We had to clamber down off the flood bank to follow the path, and duck under the bridge, which only had clearance of about 5ft 6ins - too low for either of us.

Looking east along Union Channel

Approaching the railway bridge

At the next road bridge we turned right along the A259 into Rye, passing a large number of fishing boats moored in the Rye Harbour channel and the River Brede, which empties into the Rother.

Looking back, having reached the A259 at Rye

Fishing boats moored in Rye Harbour Channel

We didn’t explore a great deal of Rye, but it is a fascinating place with mediaeval buildings, city walls and narrow cobbled streets  Walking up Landgate (the street) we reached the actual Landgate itself. In the 14th century, Rye was a fortified town, and at the time there were four gates built to allow access inside the walls - the Landgate, Strandgate, Baddings Gate and the Postern Gate. Of the four gates, only the Landgate remains today.

Rye

Landgate

From here we made our way to the station where my car was parked, and the successful completion of the East Sussex section of the Sussex Border Path.  We have now walked the 32 mile Mid Sussex Link  from East Grinstead to Mile Oak, near Portslade, and the 55 mile East Sussex Section from East Grinstead to Rye.  Now we ‘just’ need to walk the 70 miles of the Western section from East Grinstead to Thorney Island!

Rye Station

Stage 9 (Mid Sx Link) - Wivelsfield to Portslade (16.9 miles)

This walk completed the Mid-Sussex link of the SBP. We knew it was going to be quite a long hike, but there seemed no point in splitting it in two now the longer days were approaching. .

Starting out along Eastern Road

Starting from Wivelsfield, we headed south-east on Eastern Road for a couple of hundred meters, then just before Oak Tree Cottage, turned south on a roughly metalled track. At Woods Cottage, the track ended and entered West Wood.

Oak Tree Cottage

Muddy going in West Wood

Keeping close to the right hand boundary of the wood, we continued for a little under 2km, before the path became a drive and lead to a road. The route was also a bridleway, and so, after the recent rain, was very muddy. Both Anne & I nearly slipped over, which would not have been a good start to the day.

Slippery Bridge

At the road, we turned right and in 40m, where the road curved right at a junction, we took an enclosed path. Crossing a stile, we followed the right hand edge of a field to another stile, and then ahead on a track. Very soon, we turned left over yet another stile onto Ditchling Common.

Views south to the still distant downs

The stiles here were rather grand, having been donated by the Monday (walking) Group. They were constructed as steps, and the top rail lifted up to made it easier to get over the top. Most of them also had dog gates adjacent to them, so “hoorah!” to them.

"Thank you" to 'The Monday Group'

Ditchling Common

 
We now headed south across the grassland of Ditchling Common, where Zuka found a nice big bone (she always manages to find some kind of dead animal – either whole or part – on our walks, bless her). The OS map is incorrect here as it shows the route sticking to the field boundary, whereas in fact it more south-westerly, and heads directly to a railway bridge.

Across the railway bridge

Crossing the railway bridge, we then bore left and downhill towards a distant stile in the field corner. I headed in slightly the wrong direction across the field, but Anne got the ol’ compass out and took a bearing, setting us straight.

"you need to head left a bit more"

The start of the rew - uncharacteristically dry

 The path continued roughly south, and there were several different path options. The original route here was in an old tree-lined, sunken track, called a rew, but this was very wet and frankly impassable for much of its length, so we walked in the adjacent field for part of it.

Here the rew looks more like a river...

.. so we walked in the field instead

We then got a little bit lost. A SBP waymark sign, which appears to have been in the wrong place, did little to help. We briefly took the wrong path, but quickly realised things weren’t right. The map was not entirely clear, but backtracking, we soon found the correct route.

Despite the SBP sign, this is not the correct route

Poppy points out the correct way

Proceeding across a number of large fields (with the remnants of high deer fences in several of them), we then bore right, and re-entered the rew. After about 300m the rew turned west briefly, before ending at a path junction. For some reason we turned the wrong way. Not even the fact that we were now walking AWAY from the South Downs had alerted us (too much nattering, I suspect!).

A nice dry path...

Fortunately, we both checked our maps at about the same time and came to the conclusion that we were heading north, not south! We had only gone about 100m, so didn’t waste too much time. However, we still had a very long way to walk and after the two recent navigation problems, we hoped we would make better progress from now on. The muddy conditions had also contributed to our rather slow progress – it was really tiring walking in it as each step included a sideways slide.

..but not for long!

Travelling south once more, with the Downs now appearing much nearer, we soon reached a chicken farm. The birds were loose in a fenced off area though which we had to walk. They were very bold and at one point completely surrounded us. Zuka was an angel, and despite being off lead, did not touch a single bird. Poppy (on the lead!), found it all too much once or twice, and took a dive at cheeky birds who got too close.

Zuka looks bemused as the curious chickens approach

'Chicken Run'

 After the farm, we bore right across several fields, and past some stables to an enclosed path between houses. We followed this to the B2112 in the village of Ditchling, where we turned left. It had been quite a warm morning, and after our exertions in the mud, we stopped outside a newsagents and took off our jumpers. Anne took the opportunity to buy an ice-cream.
 

Ditchling village

Continuing south through the village, we went over the cross-roads and continued to a fork, where we took the twitten between the two roads. Reaching a housing estate, we bore right at a roundabout, and took another twitten to reach a plank bridge into a field.

Poppy at the twitten

Footpath diversion?

Here there appears to have been a footpath diversion, although it was not marked as such. Subsequently checking my old guide book (which we did not actually use on this walk), the route directions for this bit appear to follow the route as shown on the map. However, the obvious path (and the only marked right of way) followed a different route. From the walk instructions we were using (from the website http://www.sussexborderpath.co.uk/), it was not initially clear either, but we followed the obvious path across fields and alongside a wood, to reach the outbuildings at Park Barn farm.

We followed the only clear path

Muddy stile crossing onto Underhill Lane

Crossing a stile onto an enclosed path, Anne stepped nearly up to her ankles in a puddle of liquid horse manure. Yuk! She then climbed over a wire fence to rinse her smelly boots in a stream. Ablutions over, we continued along the slippery path to reach Underhill Lane, where we re-converged with the route as shown on the map.

Leaving the lane on the bridleway

Reaching the foot of the downs at last

The route turned right and followed the lane for about 100m, then left the road on a bridleway, and so began our first ascent of the Downs. The path twisted and turned up the scarp, so, although it got the pulse racing a little, it wasn’t too steep. It was always worth taking a quick breather and looking behind at the improving views over the Low Weald to the Surrey hills.

Views north during the climb

Climbing the scarp slope

We finally reached the top, and turned right, parallel with the South Downs Way to reach a prominent wooden waymarker called the Keymer Post. Following the SDW for a further 50m, we then bore left along an obvious grassy path, with lovely distant views of Brighton and the sea. The wind had got up a little and it was quite chilly, but with the downland turf beneath our feet (rather than the Wealden mud of the first part of our walk), we had a certain spring in our step.

Keymer Post

View NW to Wolstenbury Hill and one of the Clayton windmills

Continuing across these grassy fields for a little over 2km, we finally reached The Chattri. This is a memorial to Indian Hindu & Sikh soldiers who were wounded on the Western Front in the First World War, and who died in the Royal Pavilion (then a war hospital) in Brighton. We stopped here for lunch on a bench overlooking the sea.

Sheep on the ridge

The Chattri

After lunch we continued across the fields for about 1 ½ km, bearing gradually south, and finally reached a farm access track. The traffic noise from the busy dual carriageways was very prominent. Turning right, we followed a minor road above the A27 and swung very briefly north, before turning left to cross the A23 on a footbridge.

View SE to Brighton

Crossing the A23

Bearing right we followed a path next to the railway, where a large digger was clearing some trees, then followed a track slowly uphill for about 1.5km, passing a trig point, with steadily improving views of the downs.

Bull and cow enjoy their silage (and mud foot spa?)

Trig point, and muddy, chalky path

At the top, where the track curved away to the right, we continued straight on across a number of fields. In one of them I had a moment of panic. Poppy was off lead as the fields were arable, but I suddenly noticed, just a short distance ahead, a group of sheep and very young lambs, which had escaped from the adjacent field. It was very fortunate I spotted them before Poppy and that she was close to me at the time. I’m very glad I didn’t need to test her recall if she had taken chase!

Escaped sheep in the distance

Zuka is as steady with sheep as she is with chickens - good girl!

Reaching a multipath junction, we joined the South Downs Way again, and turned left down an enclosed path, descending to the hamlet of Seddlescombe. Here there was a tea shop, and I really fancied a cup of tea. However, as we didn’t really have time to stop, and they only had ‘proper’ mugs (so I couldn’t buy a ‘takeaway’ and slurp it on the move), we reluctantly dragged ourselves away.

Descending on the SDW to Seddlescombe

A disappointed Sara gets no tea

Just past the farm buildings Anne gave some directions to a couple of cyclists on the SDW, then we dropped down to the road. Crossing diagonally over, we took a rising track which climbed up past a reservoir, and finally, near the top, came alongside Devil’s Dyke.

Entering Devils Dyke Estate

Devils Dyke

After a brief detour for photos, we crossed a minor road and headed west along the top of the Downs towards the masts at Truleigh Hill. The views to north and south were outstanding. There was a pretty chilly wind blowing up here, but it was quite exhilarating.

View south to the sea

View north across the Weald

Passing through a gate signed Fulking Escarpment, we left the South Downs Way once more and headed SW on a faint path. Having followed the (only) clear path for some distance, we noticed that we were off the route as per the map & GPS. We changed direction to find the ‘correct’ route, although there was no obvious path across the short grass, but when we reached the field boundary, there was no way through. Other people had clearly had the same problem and the wire on the top of the fence had been pulled down to allow you to clamber gingerly over (if you have long legs, anyway). We managed to find a spot nearby where we could pull the fencing up sufficiently to allow the dogs through, and then climbed over the fence ourselves

Off piste - "now where did that path go?"

We then maintained direction as per the GPS in an attempt to find the re-routed path again. As we converged on the new path, it became clear we would have to climb over another wire fence. Again, it was obvious that others had been in the same situation and here the top rung of barbed wire had actually been cut. There was no where for the dogs to get under the fence, so although Anne was a bit reluctant, I put my coat over the barbed wire, and we lifted the dogs over, and then climbed over ourselves.

Reunited with the SBP

An escaped cow on the track round Cockroost Hill

Back on track, we headed gently downhill on a clear, enclosed track. Just after some power lines, we turned right on a wide track and followed it to the Mile Oak Dew Pond, where there is a wooden plaque with a quotation from Kipling. This path took us to the valley, where the views were rather spoiled by the double row of electricity pylons.

Dew pond

A scottish visitor

At the bottom we passed through a gate then swung sharp right for about 50m before turning left again to join a track skirting the shoulder of Southwick Hill. This hill hides the busy A27 which passes underneath it in a tunnel.

Mile Oak Barn, surrounded by pylons

Another muddy path - Southwick National Trust area

Following the pylons, we entered a National Trust area, initially on a rather slippery uphill path, and then veered left onto a terraced grassy path. At the far corner of the NT area the path passed right under a pylon and skirted a large field on an enclosed path. This path widened to a track which led to Mile Oak Gardens, a tatty Southwick sign and the rather disappointing end to the Mid Sussex Link of the Sussex Border Path.

Southwick Hill

The pylons have featured heavily in this part of the walk

This was a super walk, with plenty of variety. It was certainly quite tiring – at almost 17 miles, the distance alone was enough to ensure that. However, with the early struggles through Wealden mud and the later ascents of the South Downs, not once, but twice (or possibly three times), I think my aching legs the next day were fully justified!

A rather tatty end to our walk